Milan Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2017 collections
Words: Eric Medina
Following on from the Autumn/Winter 2017 shows, we take a look at the highlights from Milan Fashion Week Men's.
At a time when global political climate makes war feel familiar, Moschino’s military inspired collection had us feeling ever ready to suit up. It was all about the exciting prints: whether by a traditional soldier uniform covered in auburn or green roses, a puffer coat depicting Italian frescos, or a topcoat showing intergalactic battles, the spirit of a noble cause was prominent. The intricate looks were accessorized with body harnesses, berets lavished with golden trinkets, and metallic gloves.
The Fendi showing gave a joyful mood with bright colors and uplifting logos. Branded beanies and slippers kept things cool on the runway, while, a set of plush fur coats that came in animal prints and rainbow stripes affirmed the label’s talent for being artisanal yet fearlessly innovative. The topcoat with an attached pink cape that gave off superhero vibes, however, might just be the piece to fly onto your autumn wish list.
At Versace, tribal inspired patterns unified the ‘tribes’ of Versace men through hand-knitted jacquard coats, checker board bomber jackets, and flowing patent leather trench coats. Relaxed trousers emulated track pants by noticeable slits at the ankle, consequently revealing a variety of rugged sneakers reminiscent of 1990s basketball shoes. The collection showed the importance of individuality and unity within brotherhood, but also that the mixing of formal and athletic styles is definitely for the boys this season.
Marni’s show included a visual experience of projected motions that made you feel like part of a delightful hypnosis. Nearly every look came belted at the waist, holding wide cut pants up to baggy shirts, reflecting an apparent transition within fashion from wearing slim to more loose fitting styles. What stood out most, however, was fur in unexpected places serving as shirt pockets, or elbow pads, and also suits resembling pajamas; a set of looks you’d imagine Max from Where the Wild Things Are would rock as a grown up.
The Palm Angels show was a clear nod to 420 friendly, marijuana culture. Models took to the runway with shielded eyes and covered faces while wearing scarves or hoodies zipped to the top with thin sunglasses that gave a ski mask effect. Attitudes were chill, as were the ‘Palm Angels’ logo sweat pants and hoodie sets.
At Prada men’s and women’s AW17 show, we felt a ‘70s shaggy-chic mood with the prominent mixture of corduroy, leather, and fur throughout. Chocolate brown, leather trimmed pockets completed a burnt orange corduroy suit. Also eye catching was the integration of cubism within the designs of select purses carried by the ladies and on sweaters worn by the guys, giving the collection an elevated touch.
Ermengildo Zegna welcomed the debut of artistic director Alessandro Sartori, showcasing the label’s long standing elegance in tailoring and new found determination to meet the needs of a globe trotter. A contemporary stance on being both polished yet informal came together with the use of neutral colors on relaxed jogger pants, which paired nicely with lightweight formal coats or suit jackets, baseball caps, and athletic soled dress shoes for guys on the go.
We were taken on a journey of reinventing classic male silhouettes and exploring new textures during the Armani men’s show. A collection full of heavy weight fabrics like corduroy and velvet, as seen on tailored suits and jumpsuits alike, managed to reflected the light with a shimmer, showing that in a new season, regality remains in focus.
Polished punk was the effect at MSGM through modified prep-school uniforms. Plaid and argyle prints kept it classic, but bold colored sweaters with politely distressed hems gave it a subtle “IDGAF” feel. We especially liked the hoodies and coats with a single floral applique that mimicked a boutonniere.
Missoni presented a masterful fusion of colors during their FW 17 showing. We saw an intentional use of earthy tones and complimenting fibers within designs that seemed to possess the intricate shapes and movements of nature itself. There were intersecting lines, an effect of chiaroscuro balancing out dark and light, and the colors of a fading sunset on an array of sweaters and zip up jackets.
Dolce and Gabbana
Dolce and Gabbana was a millennial takeover with an all-star model crew of social media influencers delivering a formal, yet edgy collection that could cast a billion Instagram likes. The inspiration, “I nuove principi,” which when translated mean "the new standard" was seen on dazzling tuxedos in complex patterns, coats decorated with emblems, and of course, crowns – a sure sign of modern royalty.
Classic sophistication defines Salvatore Ferragamo AW17. The luxury fashion house, well known for its fine craftsmanship, didn’t attempt to be glitzy, but stayed true to its legacy. We enjoyed the thick knit gloves that balanced out chunky scarves and turtle necks, not to mention the workman style boots showcasing a rounded toe and studded sole. Classy guys will be suited for cooler weather in a lengthy soft shell coat or lush fur flight jacket.
Diesel Black Gold
Diesel Black Gold told a story of asymmetry, skewing expectations for necklines and enclosures. The characters were cool leather jackets, big violet parkas, and pants with paper bag waistlines. Not to go unnoticed was a champagne winter coat that displayed a marriage between fur sleeves and an athletic, quilted exterior that zipped askew.