London Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2017 collections
Words: Omar Nasir
Following on from the Autumn/Winter 2017 shows, we take a look at the highlights from London Fashion Week Mens.
Astrid Anderson took 90’s street wear to the next level with his latest collection. The result was high bow sportswear — velvet tracksuits, oversize pants, and chic overcoats. While Anderson still gave us obvious branding, she also relied on bold animal prints and striking accessories to relay her message of modern yet extravagant ensembles.
Always one of the most anticipated shows of the season, JW Anderson beautifully injected a range of influences — 60’s flower power, British anarchy, and Andy Warhol — into an intoxicating collection. Neutral and vivacious knits draped over checkered trousers and dyed denim were focal points. Grungy and whimsical, the collection was refreshingly potent.
MAN: Per Götesson
Per Götesson reinterpreted sleepwear into an intoxicating AW17 collection. Billowy, loose neutral toned chemises draped over exotic pants adorned the runway. The emphasis was on comfort and highly functional pieces that adapted seamlessly to an active lifestyle.
Topman Design cleverly incorporated this season’s most resounding trends into an informed collection. Loosely fitted trousers, bold sportswear, and classic denim were just some of the youthful must-have staples. Always riding the line between highly tailored pieces and avant-garde eye-openers, Topman was on point once again.
The ultimate British iconoclast, Westwood has always masterfully blurred gender lines and infused the Punk movement into her work. “Ecotricity” saw boys in multi-colored jersey dresses and girls in oversized men’s jackets. Capes were prevalent throughout this gender fluid collection. Refuting any sartorial rule adage, Westwood brilliantly blended knitwear, eccentric patterns, and inventive footwear into a collection for the ages.
Dalton injected a vibrant youthful spirit amplified by colors and playful knits. Pairing loose fit denim trousers with burnt orange, fuchsia, hunter green, and baby pink knits — the collection was refreshingly modern. The standout multi-colored denim shirt and trousers adorned in splashes of bright tones by famed artist John Booth was electric.
Raeburn cleverly infused military themes in his AW17 collection. Always a designer to blur the lines between construction and deconstruction, Raeburn displayed classic camouflage hues as well as throwing his signature curveball with hues of grey accentuated with neon yellow. A harbinger to a new era of military skirmishes, the collection was decidedly on point.
Recently winning the 2016 British Menswear Designer award, Green took us under the sea with his new collection. Models trudged the runway in aquatic inspired gear — oversized jackets, work wear inspired uniforms — equipped with straps and safety-proofed contraptions. The emphasis was on functional, durable pieces designed to weather any storm.
Held at an indoor market at Seven Sisters, Rose put her own stamp on modern menswear — redefining we think of the everyday man — the office worker, banker, and even bus drivers. Using exaggerated tailoring, Rose was meticulous in combining weighted fabrics with unexpected silks, satins, and leather. A throwback to 70’s elegance but reinterpreted in a relevant way, Rose introduced a chic yet sporty collection that reflects our current mood.
Miller’s AW17 collection, aptly titled “Fear Itself’ shied away from an aggressive retaliation, but was instead quietly restrained and respectful. Displaying well- tailored suits, pants, and jackets in leather and wool, the emphasis was on sheer comfort. A supremely self -aware attitude was finished with evocative red warrior paint strokes on the model’s visages. Billowy scarves and backpacks were accessory highlights.
Oliver Spencer presented a consummately elegant collection marked by attractive knits. Fitted turtlenecks paired under sporty velvet jackets, an all tartan black and white ensemble, and a classic English plaid raincoat were all sartorial knockouts. Spencer demonstrated a keen mastery of catering to men of all age groups and diversities.
Sibling went straight to London’s East End for inspiration for their latest collection. An homage to Barbara Windsor and the late Princess Di, the clothes were an unbridled collection of animal prints, cheetah patterns, and mosaic textiles. This was a nod to youthful irreverence at its best — bold and completely unapologetic.
One of menswear’s brightest new designers, Boner presented a 70’s tinged collection with international influences. Strikingly tailored suits, loose fitting chemises, as well as attractive head- pieces were all noteworthy. Boner’s aesthetic was deliberate and reflective of a cross – culturalism.