Paris Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2017 collections
Words: Eric Medina
Following on from the Autumn/Winter 2017 shows, we take a look at the highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's.
AMI men’s show was spunky, demonstrating how best to stay laid-back while being upscale. With classic argyle sweaters and plaid trench coats came bold-colored shirts reminding us that pink and green are an inevitably good pair. We especially enjoyed a fuchsia flight jacket with a black fur collar and seeing fresh white sneakers throughout.
Balenciaga’s collection displayed a sense of corporate nonchalance with ties, loose flowing topcoats, and rugged sneakers. Meanwhile, bombers, hoodies and blanket scarves with “Balenciaga 2017” logos gave an off-duty political vibe. Also noteworthy was the use of rubbery looking fabrics, and accentuated waistlines achieved through low-rise pants, sparkly belts, and tapered jackets cinched at the waist.
Epic or insurmountable couldn’t even describe the Balmain collection because it was just that glamourous. They were looks fit for a rock star prince –one who wears dazzling tuxedo jackets over rock t-shirts and carries snakeskin bags to compliment medallions adorning his neck. Patterns including hound’s tooth, masterful beading, camo, and floor length cable-knitting contributed to the luxe.
Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus
The Comme Des Garcons Homme Plus collection, titled “Boyhood,” communicated childhood naivety, but also an ever-present gender non-conformist narrative. The themes played out by toy trains, cars and dinosaurs attached to garments, revealing midriffs, and non-traditional male silhouettes. A series of mature, mixed-media suit jackets caught our attention, making us imagine which rock stars we might see wearing them this season.
Dior Homme gave a nod to rave culture, while maintaining edginess and beauty. A pullover with Christian Dior’s face on it read, “they should just let us rave,” while graphic patterns on a cape coat showed the faces of a mosh pit. More subtly, colors kept with the concept with an aquamarine sleeveless fur coat and a lengthy, creamsicle orange vest.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten’s was a very wearable, classic collection for down to earth guys. The clothes had a camp appeal through flannel patchwork pants, a sturdy denim trench, and material reminiscent of sleeping bags seen on puffy coats and a quilted crew-neck. These pieces were contrasted with a posh brown leather overcoat with gorgeous floral pattern and sparkly embroidery on suit jackets later in the show.
Givenchy’s creative director, Riccardo Tisci drew inspiration from western American culture as he recalls it from his childhood, showing ruffled checker print shirts, and incorporated signature Givenchy choices like stars, graphic prints and embroidery. The womenswear proved to be immensely compelling with an all-star model line-up including Kendall Jenner, who wore a plaid patchwork dress, Bella Hadid in a delicate ropey-texture and fringe gown, and Joan Smalls, who pushed the western influence to covetable heights in a black fringe coat.
Hermes showed a collection of elegant styles made with sophisticated fabrics. A navy blue velvet trench coat with a white fur collar caught our eye, along with oversized leather fanny packs and signature Hermes Birkin bags in seasonal colors.
Lanvin spoke to our grungy-loving side during its showing. We knew we liked the collection upon seeing sleeveless sweaters and striped turtlenecks layered over long plaid shirts. The outerwear possessed a military-esque durability, but also gothic tones by long strappy draw strings at the hoods, and large hooped zipper pulls. The brand took the loose-pants-are-back approach a step further with a pair of bell bottoms.
The Loewe collection was shown by an exhibition instead of a catwalk and celebrated the craftsmanship and intellect within the label’s past, present, and future. A closer look was needed to admire the masterful leather work on tote bags, coat buckles, enclosures and collars. We saw some serious shearling, by which boots, denim jackets and plush coats were made complete. Brilliant styling affirmed the house’s Spanish heritage.
Lemaire creates designs for everyday life and did so during its AW 17 show with a collection of traditional clothing in neutral fall colors. We were inspired by the brand’s ability to take a set of monochromatic, (tan or navy blue) workman style uniforms and subtly repurpose an industrial, mundane look into something contemporary and wearable.
French fashion label Louis Vuitton revealed a collaboration with sportswear brand, Supreme New York. The brilliance of combining streetwear and high fashion had until now been left to the imagination. The fusion worked especially well on a standout denim baseball shirt decorated with both brand logos, that, when layered over a button down shirt and paired with glossy pants and a leather backpack could make you feel, as Migos would say, “bad and boujee.”
Maison Margiela included 21 looks that are encompassing of how modern men want to look and feel –and we’re completely obsessed. The presentation ascended with tech fabric track pants with ankle zippers, tied leather pants in red and black with paper bag waistline effects, jersey trousers with drawstring details at the ankle, and blue burnished boots that informed a desire to be polished but not tense. The collection peaked at a look we can’t get over: number 21. A brown knit gilet was worn over a mustard tapestry velvet topcoat, a matching satin shirt, black tech track pants with ankle zippers and burnished blue boots, channeling sportiness, elegance, and artisanal contrast all at once.
Sandro men’s collection was refined by its fabrics, conventional in style, and relaxed in essence. We were moved by a crisp, blue and white striped shirt and pinstripe pants ensemble fit for a casual day at the office, and a black quarter zip sweater paired with belted trousers, elevated by a sheepskin coat with light brown shearling, perfect for a weekend dinner date.
The Japanese brand was quirky in introducing pants with ankle buckles, mottled auburn patterns, and jackets by the The North Face. Throughout the 48 winter looks we noticed jackets embracing military style pockets, ponchos and absurdly thick scarves resembling travel pillows, a suitable set of pieces for eclectic guys.
Demna Gvasalia created another collection to reflect what already exists on the streets –or better yet, going up and down public escalators –but this time it wasn’t about logo hoodies, instead, personality stereotypes with very literal styles to match. We saw punk, bro and couch potato looks but somehow no cohesiveness to the collection other than that the looks were hardly wearable (which is ironic considering they emulate real people). One persona stood out for his western vibes, strutting in ‘VETEMENTS’ logo printed blue jeans, bolo tie and a studded western belt.
For Wooyoungmi, ruffled shirts and pants that flared to a funnel at the ankle inspired an old-world sentiment. Sweater vests said semi-formal, while the bagginess of it all –open sleeves, untucked shirts, and sloshy pants –assured the collection’s whimsical tone. Romance was the aim of the show and it sure struck us in the heart when we witnessed great double breasted coats, specifically, a chocolate brown topcoat with soft shelled exterior.