New York Fashion Week Men's Autumn/Winter 2017 collections
Words: Omar Nasir
Following on from the Autumn/Winter 2017 shows, we take a look at the highlights from New York Fashion Week Men's.
Assembly New York
Designer Greg Armas turned to the downtown New York City scene for his collection. A mix of relaxed yet tailored pants paired with polka dotted shirts, classic black turtlenecks, and the occasional black and white tiger print were refined and hipster chic.
Once again, Billy Reid proved his classic Americana roots with his Fall 2017 collection. Originally from Alabama, the designer showcased sartorial staples for the modern gent throughout the collection. Burgundy cardigans, heather grey trousers, and midnight blue coats were just some of the must-haves. The emphasis was on luxurious, wearable garments that stand the test of time.
Paul and Joe
Parisian born designer Sophie Mechaly held on the brand’s firmly rooted principles of well tailored, European influenced pieces but this time, injected refreshing patterns to change it up. Floral and feline shirts and jackets were eye-catching and proved desirable to just about any sophisticated gentleman.
New chief brand officer Indigo Wilts Boss proved that is the perfect fit for Hugo Boss with his first menswear collection for the brand. Boss utilized an alluring color palette of jet -blacks, indigo blues, and heather greys to appeal to the discerning modern style setter. Tuxedo jackets, military inspired coats and stunning capes were just a few of the standouts.
Elliot conjured a mood of supreme street style for his Fall 2017 collection. Polished yet edgy, the clothes screamed sophistication and irreverence towards social norms. Hoodies were prevalent — some classic and some short sleeved — throughout the collection. Denim and striking bombers also played an integral role. The“John Elliot” man clearly has an eye for trends but knows how to keep it real.
Taking a page from the rock Gods of the 60’s and 70’s, John Varvatos convincingly presented “rocker chic” for his Fall 2017. Skinny pants paired with leopard printed shirts worn under fitted vests and statement -making jackets were sartorial bliss. The focus was on swagger — a modern gent who struts though beat of his own drum.
Designer Daisuke Obana made a rousing political statement with his latest collection. Referencing the disenfranchised homeless youth culture, Obana presented a collection that was highly evocative. Layering was key as oversize coats draped over knits and hoodies. Wearing everything in their possession was the central theme as models faced the future with uncertainty.
Alex, Matthew, and Samantha Orley used the 70’s as inspiration for their fall collection. High-waisted corduroy trousers with tucked in knits made for a retro-mood. The result was school- boy chic with plenty of classic, well- tailored pieces.
The 90’s were in full swing on Ervell’s catwalk. Mohair fur, pink bombers and black polyurethane leather pants were sartorial standouts. Creative expression preceding the age of social media was cleverly referenced throughout. Ervell paired turtlenecks and camel coats under plastic anoraks for a distinctive look.
Creative Director Michael Maccari reaffirmed what we’ve always known about Perry Ellis — this is a brand that specializes in modern, well-made pieces for the modern man on the go. Work attire was casual — relaxed trousers paired with knits and untucked collared shirts proved refreshingly modern. Sportswear was playful yet deliberately masculine.
Anticipation was high for Simon’s debut collection for NYFW. Part gothic, part femme, the collection was full of surprises. The common thread was New York City and rebellion as models marched down the runway in violet broad shouldered jackets, chunky knits, and oversized trousers. Looks were accentuated with charming necklaces and athletic sock-like hand to elbow pieces.
Elegance reigned yet in Lauren’s well executed collection. The epitome of American style, Lauren injected a unique twist to the collection with Native American prints. A western motif re-appeared throughout — black cowboy shirts, matching buckles and cowboy boots. Military inspired burgundy coats and jackets were impeccable.
Designers Daniel Corrigan and Chelsea Hansford adopted a utilitarian approach for their newest collection. Set in the snowy outdoors, the pieces proved optimal for outdoor excursions. With taupe pullover hoodies, red and black plaid workman shorts and mustard yellow coats, the collection included a generous range of options for any active bloke.
Always one to be transgressive in his sartorial presentations, Thom Browne used his signature grey suit and defied any and all expectations. Offering over forty interpretations of the suit — constructed and deconstructed, proportional and unproportional — Browne seemed to be urging his customers to take a risk and stray away from convention.
Snyder continues to gain momentum with his bold and defining collections. A master of tailoring, Snyder charmingly like to change up the formula for men’s dressing. This time, he included track -suit jackets over trousers, a look that made perfect sense. Pairing chunky knits over cargo pants, the designer catered to the unpretentious gent with distinguishable style.
Hilfiger glided into the future with a collection that referenced the brand’s heritage while embracing modern times. The emphasis was on relaxed pieces — fur trimmed jackets, baby blue embroidered shorts, and red and blue striped knits. Hilfiger infused the all American colour palette of red, white, and blue in most of the pieces — most notably in layered looks including denim, vivid pullovers, statement making fur trimmed winter coats and multi-coloured beanies and tan coloured workman boots.