For the Spring Summer 2017 menswear presentation, on Friday 24 June,
the LOEWE showroom at place Saint Sulpice in Paris has been transformed
into a darkly atmospheric, total immersive environment.
A photograph of a gold-black sunset covers all walls, while a black glazed tile floor
gives the impression of walking through moonlit waters; combined, all elements
evoke a Mediterranean port, and more specifically a little-known, near-vanished
idea of Ibiza, once a fisherman’s haven.
A craft-driven variation on classics, the new men’s collection continues to develop
the language that LOEWE’s creative team has gradually built over five seasons under
Jonathan Anderson. Shot on the Balearic island that was one of Anderson’s inspirational starting points
for his reconfiguration of LOEWE, Spring Summer 17 completes a narrative cycle
that has run through previous seasons, imagining the adventure of two young
characters isolated in a natural locale.
Highly textural and tactile, the collection grounds the figments of a freely flowing
imagination into something as utilitarian and straightforward as a plaid shirt and
a great pair of jeans. Organic garment-dyed fabrics —linen, terrycloth and silk, among them—
complement an airy, slightly bohemian silhouette, while a breathable water-repellent
rain jacket represents the more technologically advanced end of the
material spectrum. Natural pops of colour mix with prints that recall found children’s textiles, including
a playfully didactic fossil motif; soft animal bag charms in napa, suede and fur
reinforce the toy-like theme.
Embellishment comes in unexpected forms, such as silicone-embroidered coins
and a new chrome-dipping technique, seen best on jeans covered in two types
of ‘molten’ gold, one of a series of standout trousers.
Distinctive jewellery injects a modern take on folklore, evident in striking natural
driftwood and cork pieces; meanwhile, a humble, practical object turns talismanic in a spoon necklace modelled after a 14th century Welsh wooden utensil.
As usual, extraordinary accessories round out the collection. This season they
include a bucket bag with an open basket weave top, presented here in multiple
colours including a perfect yellow, the new T backpack, and a crocodile loafer in
brown and black.
For the first time this season, a free extended digital version of the exclusive
hardcover publication LOEWE produces for every collection will be available
for download on iTunes.
Search LOEWE Publication on iTunes or follow this link: